Back
Coastal History 2

Coastal History and Cartography

 

            The history of the Broward County coastal area is closely linked with the wider maritime history of the New Bahama Channel, now known as the Straits of Florida, as well as with the native people that were indigenous to the peninsula, and later the early white settlers who made South Florida their home in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. From the era of Menendez in the mid sixteenth century, the coastal zone marine environment, lying between the Florida Current and the eastern peninsula, became the route of choice south from St. Augustine. This littoral current, flowing south only when an eddy goes by, was described by Menendez in 1565, in a letter to the Spanish monarch, Philip II. Bernard Romans in his Sailing Directions of 1775 more explicitly described the bottom conditions and coastal relief. The survey area described and investigated in this study lies within an area of historic navigation and has the potential to contain historic shipwrecks and associated cultural materials.

            The historic topography that now constitutes modern Broward County remained, until the massive drainage projects of Napoleon Bonaparte Broward in the early twentieth century, physically similar to southeast Florida as discovered by Spanish explorers in the first quarter of the sixteenth century. Until the land reclamation projects that began on the New River in 1906, the southeast peninsula consisted of coastal estuarine wetlands and the extensive Everglades region lying south of Lake Okeechobee. Along the half mile of upland that ran along the eastern coastline was a narrow elevated strip that consisted of a relic reef foundation and drifted sand uplands. Sites along the coastal ridge at the mouths of the Miami River, New River, Hillsboro Inlet, Lake Worth, and Loxahatchee River at Jupiter Inlet - were first populated by the pre-Columbian, and later by the Indians of the historic era. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries these locations, situated on biologically fertile, river estuary systems, became the sites of the first white settlements. East of the coastal uplands was a narrow zone of water and wetlands that separated the barrier islands from the greater peninsula. This natural waterway was only partially navigable until the twentieth century when the Arm Corps of Engineers dredged these wetlands to form the present Intracoastal Waterway System.

            To better understand the potential for cultural resources to be found in the survey area a short review of Broward County coastal history has been undertaken. The intent of this review is to document the importance of historic Broward County as a maritime community, strategically located on a route of passage important to all the trading nations of the world. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the Spanish, French, English and Dutch vied for control of the Bahama Channels. Later in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the balance of world power shifted and the coastal waters of Florida became important as the new Republic of the United States consolidated power in the territories of Louisiana and Texas. In the nineteenth century the coastal waters of Florida served as the primary route to supply U.S. forces in the Seminole Wars, the Civil War, and at the turn of the century, the Spanish American War in Cuba and the Philippines.

 

The Prehistoric Era

 

            The prehistoric peoples who inhabited the Florida peninsula exhibited a pattern of cultural continuity that evolved slowly over the past ten thousand years; then in the era three thousand B.C. the culture of the pre-Columbian native people of Florida experienced a period of cultural elaboration and diversification. This period of change lasted until the sixteenth century and the arrival of European explorers and the settlers who later established a permanent presence on the northeast peninsula at St. Augustine in 1565. A generally accepted framework for the pre-historic periods in Florida is:

 

Paleo-Indian Period - 10,000 - 7,000 B. C

Archaic, with Early, Middle and Late Periods - 7.000 - 1,5000 B. C.

Transitional Period - 1,500 to 500 B. C.

Three Glades Periods- a Glades III from 1200 to 1566

Historic Period - 1566 to 1763

(after McGoun, 1993)

            During the Archaic Period of native development the prime accelerator for population growth and cultural change was the gradual warming of the continental climate at the end of the last Ice Age. In the thousand years from 3,500 to 2,500 B. C., the water table rose to the point where the present contours of the Florida peninsula were established. Over this period the boundaries of the Lake Okeechobee and Everglades wetlands systems became stabilized in their present location and configuration. The expanding system of coastal estuarine wetlands situated between the present barrier islands and the Florida peninsula became a primary area for habitation for the Florida native people. The combination of increased drainage from the wetter interior and the decrease in sea level rise led to the formation of brackish estuaries, mangrove forests, and tropical marine meadows, a rich coastal habitat capable of supporting ecologically well balanced animal and human communities (Widmer, 1988).

            Three types of native living sites predominate in the prehistoric period. Large, multi-component cultural sites, that exhibit the remains of extensive middens and a wider range of tools and natural resource remains are always near wetlands and denote large primary living sites - or  villages. Smaller special use sites surround these primary sites and yet smaller sites throughout the peninsula, but their remains are generally concentrated in the coastal zone. Multi-component sites are usually located in association with shell mound complexes found at the mouths of coastal rivers and on the barrier islands. Examples of multi-component mound site complexes may be found at Jupiter Inlet at the mouth of the Loxahatchee River estuary system. Another good example of such a complex is Turtle Mound, on the barrier island north of Cape Canaveral (McGoun, 1993; Rouse, 1951; Widmer, 1988).

            The rapid settlement of the lower peninsula after the turn of the 20th century resulted in the loss of many of these mound complexes, which were utilized for road fill, or bulldozed flat to facilitate construction projects. The foundation of many local communities consists of this material; an existing example is the trailer park complex south of Jupiter Inlet. The Jupiter lighthouse, constructed north of the inlet in the mid nineteenth century, was also built on the remains of a prehistoric shell mound.

            In Broward County important examples of special  use prehistoric habitation sites have been discovered and excavated in the drained wetlands of central Broward County near the historic New River. Five such sites, Markham Park II, Taylor Head, Peach Camp, Rolling Oaks II, and Deep Fork, have been investigated by the Broward County Archaeological Society. These sites are located from just north of  the North New River Canal, to a point, north of the South New River Canal. These modern canals were dredged in 1906, along the historic north and south branches of the New River, near the Pine Island cultural complex.

            This area has been described by local archaeologist, Gypsy Graves. “Topographically this central portion of Broward County is generally flat with numerous slight rises above the landscape. The soils are very poorly drained. The organic material is Dania muck - peat and residuals of decomposed saw grass - which overlies Miami oolite limestone. The hammocks are slightly elevated limestone rock deposits. To the east are the sandy flatlands, the Atlantic Coastal Ridge, Pine Island Ridge, and the coastal marshes and swamps. To the north and south lie the sawgrass marshes and the wet prairies of the Everglades. To the west lies the Big Cypress Swamp. The elevations of underlying rock vary between four and five feet above mean sea level with greater elevations to the northwest, northeast, and southwest. This central Broward County location is generally the lowest elevation inland along the great flow of fresh water south from above bedrock and the habitation sites are on hammocks rising two to five feet above the surrounding surface. The climate is semi - tropical with warm moist summers and mild winters. The periods of greater precipitation are in June and November. When water level decreases due to lack of precipitation, the organic soils dry out and fires are not uncommon. It is within the boundaries of this - Sea of Grass - and along the coast that the Tequesta lived, pursued the food quest, and flourished for several thousand years (Graves, 1982).”

            Upon concluding the excavations of the Rolling Oaks II Site it was the opinion of Ms. Graves that this site and the others were more than mere hunting camps; that they were semi – permanent, inter-related inland communities. Based on non ceramic artifacts and ceramic shards excavated, the sites were believed to date from the Late Archaic through the Glades Period. The term “semi permanent” may mean that the five central Broward sites were special use sites, which would also be supported by the fact that burials and extensive midden remains indicate prolonged occupation. In the words of Ms. Graves: “These sites represent a continuum of habitation sites of time. They are not villages in the same sense as the coastal settlements, but reflect a greater   occupation than mere hunting camps (Graves, 1982)”.

 

Spanish Colonial Era

 

            In 1513, Juan Ponce de Leon during his exploration of the Bahamas and search for the legendary Fountain of Youth made a landfall at some point along the central or lower southeast coast of Florida. This landing, to replenish water supplies, has been variously placed in what is present northern Palm Beach County or as far north as Martin County. What is known, however, is that the landing was contested by hostile Indians, and Ponce sailed on. This encounter with the natives was the beginning of a series of conflicts that would continue through the Seminole Wars of the nineteenth  century (Milanich, 1995).

            The east coast of Florida saw no permanent Spanish settlement until Pedro Menendez de Aviles founded St. Augustine in 1565. Later in the 1560’s, there were two reported massacres of the Spanish by coastal natives, and in 1565 Menendez attempted to establish a garrison somewhere between Jupiter and St. Lucie Inlets. However, due to hunger, mutiny, and the hostility of the local natives  (the Jega, or Ais), this attempt to garrison the lower peninsula failed (Lyon, 1990). In 1517, Hernandez de Cordova sailed up the west coast of Florida on a voyage of exploration and  Bernal Diaz recorded the first pitched battle between the Spanish and the warlike people that controlled the lower peninsula, called the Calusa. According to Diaz:

“The Indians were very tall dressed in deerskin, and carried long bows, good arrows, lances, and a type of sword. They attacked immediately, wounding six of us and I received a small cut. We answered so quickly with sword and fire that they retreated to the aid of their companions in canoes, who were fighting hand to hand with our sailors. Our boat had been captured after four sailors had been hurt and Alaminos had been wounded in the throat. We returned their attack in water more than waist deep and made them abandon our boat. Twenty lay dead on the shore and in the water and we took three prisoners, who died of wounds on shipboard (Diaz quoted in Gilliland, 1989).”

            Menendez, and a strong Spanish force guided by the shipwreck survivor Fontenada, visited the Calusa of Mound Key located in Estero Bay and their Chief Carlos in 1556. In this chronicle published later in Spain, Fontenada describes the propensity of the coastal Indians to seek out shipwrecks:

“I was two years among the natives” he writes, “on all the coast of which I will speak hereafter, there is not base gold to be found, much less pure, for that which they have is from the vessels which are wrecked in passing from New Spain, and Peru when storms overtake them (Fontenada’s Journal, Centennial Folio Edition, 1992).”

            Material evidence of an artistically advanced pre-Columbian culture has been archaeologically recovered from the Key Marco area, south of Mound Key. Archaeological remains of the sophisticated Marco culture consist of ornately carved wooden figures and a canal system dug through the key which provided water craft access to the protected interior of the key which had become much elevated through centuries of oyster shell deposits (Gilliland, 1989).

            It was apparent in 1556 that the Calusa were the dominant tribe of a loose confederation of Florida natives. One clear indication of this dominance was the fact that Fontenada and other Spanish shipwreck survivors were routinely transported to the primary Calusa village at Mound Key by the politically and militarily less powerful tribes, like the Matacumbe’s, who dwelled in the Florida Keys.

            It is unknown if Calusa dominance extended to the southeast coast, the home of the Calusa contemporaries, the Tequesta. The southeast coast Tequesta inhabited the area from the Miami River north to present Broward County and Palm Beach County. It was Tequesta sites at the mouth of the New River that Florida archaeological pioneer Irving Rouse excavated after World War II, as was the Rolling Oaks II site excavated by Graves in the drained wetlands of west Broward.

            North of the Tequesta lived the Jega, in a major village at Jupiter Inlet. It was the Jega people that Jonathan Dickinson and the Reformation shipwreck victims encountered on Jupiter Island in 1696. In present Martin County, on the St. Lucie River were the Ais, a dominant tribe that controlled the coastal peninsula, and Hutchinson Island north to Cape Canaveral. At the time of  the Reformation shipwreck, it was the Ais that dominated the Jega. Eugene Lyon describes the Ais in 1565, as encountered by Menendez.

“The Spaniards had also entered a very different cultural area of the Florida Indians. The people who lived in this area, (present Hutchinson Island south of the Cape) were called the Ais, had built a long and stable culture organized almost entirely around the sea. Turtles, fish, and shellfish from the river, inlets, and ocean sustained their life. Over twenty years of acquaintance with Spanish shipwrecks along the coast had accustomed the Indians to the taking of white prisoners and the salvage of ships. By 1665, they had already built a reputation for ferocity and cruelty which compelled the advancing Spaniards to move with caution (Lyon, 1990).”

            During the sixteenth century, the southeast coast Tequesta may be compared in lifestyle and ferocity to the Calusa and Jega. Their possible dominance by the Calusa of the southwest coast, and the central coast Ais, may well have had more to do with demographics and the number of warriors individual tribes could put into the field, rather than with the individual tribes’ warlike nature. The ability of the various coastal estuary systems to support population growth and the number of warriors available for domestic warfare was the key to tribal dominance. It is safe to say that the hostile natives that Ponce de Leon encountered in 1513 - either  Tequesta, Jega, or Ais - were as warlike as the Calusa encountered by Diaz twenty years later. In 1565, both Menendez and Fontenada bore witness to the Florida natives propensity to raid shipwrecks, and take shipwreck victims captive (Lyon, 1990). This was true a hundred years later at the end of the seventeenth century as supported by Jonathan Dickinson’s Journal (Dickinson, 1696). What the Florida natives had learned over two centuries was that they were no match for armed Spanish forces. This was evident in the aftermath of the Spanish 1715 fleet disaster. The armed survivors of the six 1715 shipwrecks experienced no hostilities from the warlike central coast Ais (Burgess & Clausen, 1976).

            By the middle of the eighteenth century, the original Florida Indians had been decimated by warfare and disease and few remained. Late in the eighteenth century the British carried out an extensive mapping survey of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the Florida peninsula. The Bernard Romans chart of 1774 (Figure 2) has no annotations for any coastal sites inhabited by native people, only the shell mounds where villages had been previously constructed. The 1769 chart clearly shows the coastline of present Broward County. On this chart it appears that an inlet is open in the area of the New River - Rio Nuevo.

 

The Era of Transition

           

            In 1983 the topographical engineer Charles Vignoles published a report entitled - Observations Upon the Florida’s. This study establishes the fact that early in the nineteenth century, before the outbreak of the Second Seminole War, there was little knowledge of the south Florida interior. Little cartographic information of the southern peninsula had been gathered since the Menendez era, when the Spanish explorer had searched for a natural flowing trans-Florida waterway. Menendez believed that this waterway ran from the St. Johns River in northeast Florida to southwest Florida, possibly emptying into the Gulf of Mexico at Charlotte Harbor, or Estero Bay. Vignoles describes the St. Lucie River, circa 1823, and the unknown interior of the south central peninsula, which he describes as an - “extensive inundated region covered with Pine and Hammock Islands of all sizes and generally called - The Ever Glades (Portion of Vignoles 1823 Survey Map Figure 3).”

“The majestic appearance of  the St. Lucie River affords at first sight the greatest expectations; disemboguing by a mouth nearly a mile in width, its volume of waters into a wide and extensive bay, it gives the idea of its having traversed a long region from the west, perhaps originating in the much talked of Lake Mayaco, which like the fountain of youth has never been found (Vignoles, 1823).”

            Another indicative example of the southern peninsula as  “terra incognita” - unknown land  is demonstrated by a relatively late - 1768 - Spanish chart (Figure 4). The route of the plate fleets in the Gulf of Mexico, Loop Current, is accurately depicted, as is the route around the Martyres - Florida Keys - into the Bahama Channel. The most peculiar points of topography on this chart are the two lakes, at the position of present day Lake Okeechobee. Another anomaly is a waterway that leads from what appears to be the present Loxahatchee River, or St. Lucie Rivers, around the northern most lake to the Gulf of  Tampa Bay. This mythical route probably indicates the Spanish belief that a trans Florida waterway existed.

            In the American Revolution Bicentennial reprint of William Geroald de Brahms - The Atlantic Pilot, editor Samuel Procter supports this “terra incognita” asseration of: “Florida as an unknown land, when the British took control of the peninsula from Spain in 1763 - Geographic

 data was almost non-existent, and the crude maps drawn by the Spanish who had occupied Florida for almost 200 years were inadequate (Proctor, 1974).”

            Although ignorant of the Florida interior, Vignoles and the other pioneer Florida cartographers produced accurate coastal maps and charts. Vignoles was quick to appreciate the potential of the maritime coast. The Florida coastal zone with inumerable interconnected inlets, bays, estuaries, sounds, and rivers offered a bright future for intracoastal navigation. Vignoles description of the coast at Jupiter speaks to this potential; he might as easily have been describing the two forks of the New River in present Broward County. Vignoles: “The three streams are distinguished as the Grenville River on the north, Middle River, and Jupiter Creek on the south, the latter as well as Fresh Water Creek near the bar, have some connection with the fresh water lake which approaches within four miles of Jupiter, by means of lagoons and marshes, through which a channel might easily be dug; thereby with another short cut on the south, making a

complete though intricate communication practicable at least for boats,  from Cape Florida and the Keys to within forty miles of St. Augustine (Vignoles, 1823).”

 

                                  

                            Return to top of page                      Return to Index page